Up very early this morning to fly to Iguazu. As we neared the airport, we saw a mist plume reaching out of a verdant canyon. John Fernandez met us, and soon we were off to Puerto de Iguazu!
John is an interesting guy. Maybe in his late 50's. Rather short, solid, tan and with graying hair. Originally from India, but has lived in Argentina for the last thirty or so years. Most of it in Buenos Aires, but he moved to Iguazu and opened his B&B, The Secret Garden, about 4 months ago. SG has gotten very good reviews in its short life, although his website is rather limited on info. One thing that stood out is his hobby of conversation. After regaling us with cryptic tales of quitting everything and just traveling every ten years or so, and how his wives (I think he meant consecutive, and not contemporary!) at the times just hadn't appreciated this particular outlook, we arrived in town, and he proceeded to give us a short tour. Not really much to say about the town, except that he considers it a frontier town, and that he keeps a dog and someone in residence all the time so that he doesn't get robbed blind.
Finally arrived at SG, and it is lovely. The wooden deck cuts through a luch garden area that houses many species of plants that are supposedly becoming scarcer in the area. Our room is warm, clean and inviting. After four days of communal hostel bathrooms, it is nice to have our own sparkling clean place to shower and wash/dry clothes. We sat for a moment, then were up and running again.
Walked to the bus station and caught the bus heading for Foz do Iguazu, in Brazil. I guess I should explain that we didn't have visas to visit Brazil. They cost $100 each, and everything we'd heard said that if you take the bus over and back, the boarder agents just slide over it because they're glad to have revenue coming into the city. Besides, JLITH wanted to do something risky, and who was I to deny her? When we got to the Argentine side, I did a Homer-esque "Doh!" because I'd left my passport back at the SG. What can I say, I like leaving it in a safe place. Had to cab it back to the B&B, and ended up taking the bus at Avenida Los Lapachos. When we arrived at the Argentinian boarder (again), JLITH asked the agent what we should do on our return. Agent replied that we'd probably have to pay 100 pesos to get back across, and left it at that. And at 3 pesos to a dollar, it seemed reasonable enough. And so we passed the Argentinian side just fine. On the Brazillian side of the boarder, the bus stopped again, and everyone started walking single file out of the bus and onto the sidewalk. I thought we were done for. As I watched, our busmates walked along the sidewalk for a few meters, made an abrupt left turn, then reboarded the bus. I was mystified. I then saw that everyone was stepping onto a wet rag with both feet, when I had supposed they were merely turning. Still mystified. Was this some sort of symbolic dusting off of one's feet, leaving one country for another? Well, whatever it was, we did it, and got back on the bus, and only started breathing normally after a few hundred meters.
Guided by Lonely Planet, we exited the bus on the main road just after the bridge. We didn't need to go all the way to Foz do Iguazu, and didn't want to waste any daylight. Several other tourists got off as well, and seemed to know where they were going ... but they didn't. JLITH noticed that there were on the wrong side of the road. Soon the tables were turned, and they started following us. But before they could make it over, we decided we'd waited long enough, and had found a cab to get us to the park entrance.
Time in the park was amazing.
Walked along paved path that had ever expanding views of the falls.
Went out along the catwalks to stand right in front of the largest falls. Pictures with waterproof camera to follow.
Walked back along path to adventure area. Rapelled down to the canyon bottom. JLITH went down really fast, but I took my time, savoring the exquisite views of the falls. However, by the time I got to the bottom, I had to hurry, because my hands were burning.
Went whitewater rafting with the most beautiful Brazillian boys. I don't think I've ever seen better tanned and sleek deltoid muscles. Rafting was very exciting, especially when we charged up the waves. When it calmed down a bit, we got out and swam/floated down the river a bit.
Left the park around 6pm and took the bus to Foz do Iguazu. Couldn't find the bus to get back to Argentina. The guy at the counter was no help. Said we should take a taxi. NOT what we wanted to do, but what else to do? So we took a taxi. Sweated bullets in the long line to get back across the boarder. Agonized over the two Argentine buses that whizzed past in the bus lane. And when it came down to it, the just waved us through on the Brazillian side. On the Argentine side, we had to have our passports checked, then we had to do the footwipe thing.
Back at the B&B, the American sociologist sighed at our being young and pretty and able to "charm the boarder agents." The guy said that the penalty for not having a visa is 30 days in jail. Don't know if he's correct, but I'm glad we didn't have to find out that night!
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