Oh, time flies. So much of it has gone by that I won't even try to catch up on the last few months. However, I feel constrained to jot down a few notes from this trip I'm on now.
May 23: Set out for the east coast. From LAX, flew to Cleveland, OH and connected to Providence, RI (tiny airport with just one terminal!). JLITH picked me up and we stayed a bit to watch the Fire Water, then headed back to Boston, where we had appetizers and dessert at Finale. I still don't remember what it's called, but we had that decadent chocolate cake with the melted center that I had with the girls in Paris. Bon appetite indeed!
May 23: Up early to catch the megabus to NYC. Finally got to the Tone on Lex Hostel, situated ourselves after lugging our suitcases up to the 4th floor. The rest of the day is a blur. I did find a book shop and get North and South by Elizabeth Gaskill. Fleet Week in NYC, and lots of fun to see the service men and women parading around in their whites. It must be difficult, since I feel that the American people have little to no concept of what our service people actually do in the middle east. The majority of the press is given over to the horrible things that are done in the name of the service, and not to the rest of the people who are just doing their job as well as they can. I did make it out to the Frankie Manning event, but it was such a crowd that it was hard to meet new people, and of course there were far too many follows, so I spent most of the night watching.
May 25: Walked around. Found my way over to the MOCA store (both of them) and browsed. Objects that I found particularly tempting were: a Brazilian fruit basket in the shape and reconfigurable design as a centipede, a foldable orange bike, and a sheet of white paper cut with intricate designs of flowers and vines for wall art. However, I was good and spent nary a red cent. Eventually made my way to Central Park. Watched some break dancers with unmitigated glee. One Italian looking guy must have been in his late 30's, and had the most exquisite hand movements. The African American guy must have been as old, and had the best gliding steps I've ever seen, and the funniest pacman ghostly movements. They were absolutely surreal and made the kids scream with laughter. What impressed me was their passion for the dance, and how they actually taught some young bucks who contributed to the show. After, I found a shady and congenial park bench (with a romantic, inscripted, dedicatory plate) and read N&S for a bit. Don't think me a heretic if I confess that I like it ever so much better than Pride and Prejudice. Gaskill is wonderful, and soon I want to write up a post for X2 about her. Met JLITH for dinner at Serendipity, and found a double sided hat like the one I wore in Paris. Yes, I bought it, although I'm ashamed to say how much I paid. Went back to the hostel and took a nap. Made it over to the dance for the last song (around 0200), met up with some other Angelinos, and walked over to the after dancing. Oh, how much better. There was live music, AND a blues room. Had some okay dances, and a few spectacular ones. I'd come back to NYC, but not on a festival weekend. Met some genial Germans. At first, I wasn't sure if the geniality came from their natures, or their drinks (Budweiser!). As I look back on it, I think it was their natures, with a little help from their beverages. Made it home around 0700 ... the latest I've ever come home. I can't enough how much I love the metro system in NYC and Paris.
May 26: More of a blur. Stood in the Tickets line in Times Square, and got a ticket to Next to Normal on a whim. Dinner with JLITH at a nearby restaurant. NTN was fabulous. Musical about a family in the suburbs. They are not striving for normality, but next to normal will do. Brought me to tears a few times.
May 27: Back to Boston on the megabus. Grocery shopping, laundry, resting and reading. Can't seem to get Margaret Hal, John Thornton and Richard Armitage out of of my mind.
May 28: Driving around with JLITH. Saw the Longfellow Park building that recently burned. Walked around Cambridge. Bought some books: one of LM Alcott's fictions, and a book of the correspondence between George Sand and Gustave Flaubert. Both of the women drank deeply from the draught of life, although not at all in the same way. Dinner was scrumptious pizzas from Veggie Planet and dark hot chocolate from LA Burdicks. Picked up Mom and Dad at the airport. Stayed overnight in Providence
May 29: Up early in the morning. Drove out to Walden Pond, but it was too soggy and rainy to enjoy, so we started the long drive up to the land of maple syrup. Acadian National Park was also a bit damp, and there was too much fog to appreciate the views, but it was exhilarating none the less. Stopped in Bar Harbor for some lunch, then continued the (seemingly) interminal trek up to Saint John, Canada.
May 30: Stopped by Reversing Falls to see the famous tides, then on to Prince Edward Island. So relieved to make it to Heart's Content Bed and Breakfast, where Joan welcomed us with open arms. Delicious to hear her Scottish accent, and even better to discuss all things Anne and Maud with her. She directed us to the Olde Dublin Pub for some music and merriment. Walked around a bit in downtown Charlottetown, then got mom and dad settled with food, then JLITH and I went to the pub. Fun to be in an Irish pub! So much energy and goodwill. No room at any of the tables, so we sat at the bar and were served dinner by one of the handsomest bartenders I've ever met. Black Irish and oh so nice, even if he is married. Had a little conversation with a local older couple who split their time between the US and Canada, and stayed for some great tunes by the band, but weariness called us back to our beds, and it was not to be gainsaid.
May 31: Instead of doing Anne things today (since they evidently start on Jun 1), we went to Cape Breton. We may have been a bit over-ambitious. Nova Scotia is large, and so is that particular cape. We sped around the immenseness of it, and made it back to the ferry with a minute to spare. However, it felt like we were conquerors, to judge from all the smashed insects on JLITH's front bumper, not to mention all the ones I cleaned off the windshield. It made me feel like we were evening the odds up a bit between us and the insects. However, the day was sunny, and the views were spectacular. How amazing to be surrounded by lush greenness and the briskness of the sea at every turning. And I think it was today that I ate my first whole lobster. Messy deal, and it was surprising for me to do it, since I hate eating things at a civilized table that requires exceptional dexterity ... I rarely order any meat with bones after my horrible awkward first date with Robert G so many years ago. But I did it, it was tasty, and next time I may just order the no-work version, as I saw at the restaurant JLITH and I dined at in NYC.
Jun 1: So, the day was not as fine as yesterday, but still it was fabulous. Avonlea, the mini-city, was not flourishing yet, so we skipped on to the other sites. Green Gables was fabulous, and I would count Lovers' Lane and the surrounding forests as another spiritual home. Really, it was quite lovely ... ochre earth, vibrant green flora, flowers in the most beautiful and unexpected spots, and an azure sky that was enhanced by the clouds that raced across it, blown about by the ever present and playful winds. There is so much of Maud in Anne and Emily and the Story Girl, and it's fascinating to learn which fictional parts arose from real life. Guiltily, I picked some wildflowers from the forest, and little heartshaped flower from the garden, to press in my books. I think Maud would have sympathized with me. LM Montgomery sites are spread all over the Cavendish side of the island, so I'm getting them all a little confused, but we visited the house where she was born, the foundations of the house where she lived with her grandparents, the house where she was married (settling for a man instead of one of the two who actually inspired her), and the house overlooking the Lake of Shining Waters, where she boarded while she taught the local school. Joan told me last night that it had come out in the last year that Maud had committed suicide, perhaps driven to it by her husband's deep depression, poor health, and grabby relatives. Must read up more on Maud. Was so tempted to buy books, but thought that I can order them online and have them delivered, instead of lugging them and having the check luggage. However, I did indulge in two beautiful editions: Anne of Avonlea (1940) and Rainbow Valley (1923?). Drove dad back to the B&B, and the girls went to a ceilidh (pronounced Kaylee, not saylid). To tell the truth, it wasn't great. But it was amazing to behold Celia (in her early 50's) holding her family together by her talent and sheer willpower. This stout and sonsy woman sang with the clear voice of an angel, and played everything from piano, accordian, violin and guitar, and even did a jig for us. She was assisted in her endeavors by her brother (disabled from his severe arthritis and meds) on the fiddle, her mother (disabled from carpal tunnel surgery) on the fiddle/piano, and her husband, who played "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star" on the fiddle ... clearly a Johnny-come-lately. I also got some pictures of a church that I liked particularly ... because it was neat and pretty white with black trim, and partly because I liked the cemetery that stood right off to the side. How nice to have one's dear ones near by, and not miles away in a seldom-visited plot in a megacemetery.
Jun 2: Driving. Much more of it. Made our way over to the Hopewell Rocks. I was dubious about the place, to be sure. As we drove further and further away from the main freeway, I got and more irritated. However, when we started the short hike out to the cliff, I regained some of my composure. Those delicious winds, you see. We made it out to the promontory, then descended the stairs to walk about. The Flowerpot rocks were amazing. More amazing was how far out the low tide was. And best was the strength of the wind. I felt like the girl in the fairy tale ... the wind could have been my lover, scooping me up in his arms to take me on adventures to far away places every night. It felt as if I could have flown away. So strong and thrilling and pungent. I would love to live where such winds are frequent visitors.
Jun 3: Stopped in Salem and took a tour of the House of Seven Gables and wandered through the house where Nathaniel Hawthorne was born. Held myself back from buying more books, since I'll be able to get them from the library back home. But it was a struggle. Then we hightailed it over to Concord. Unfortunately (and unexpectedly) the Emerson house was closed, but we sped over to Orchard House and got in on a tour the minute we walked in the door. Our tour guide was amazing! Love her and her passion for bringing the Alcotts and their friends alive. I felt enveloped in the Concord as the birthplace of American Transcendentalism. Must read more on this when I get back. I did buy a copy of Hospital Sketches and the journal entries of LMA, because I couldn't resist. We tried to make it to the Old Manse in time, but we were too short on time. Contented ourselves with walking around the place, admiring the queer and irregular window glass panes, and the beautiful flowers next to the garden Emerson planted for the Hawthornes. I picked up a few fallen leaves to press in my LMA books.We also took a drive out to Authors Ridge, as Pilgrim Steps had suggested. An amazing place. Another spiritual home. Arrived at Beacon Hills Friends House and am happily ensconced. Dined with the Quakers and had a lovely veggie repast. The best parts were the lime and chili mayo spread for the sandwiches, and the honeydew melon graced with mint leaves. So refreshing. Everyone at table was pretty friendly, and I was again reminded of how much I love the table here ... so long, with many boards, capable of seating twenty with room to spare. Oh, what great dinner parties I would be able to throw. Was glad of an opportunity to walk alone down Charles Street in search of quarter for laundry, and felt like a bird set free from a cage.
And so we're generally up to date. Tomorrow JLITH walks the stage at the Harvard School of Public Health, and we get to hear Atul Gawande speak. What more could I want? Dancing of course, but I've already done that in Boston, so I won't repine.
Wednesday, June 03, 2009
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1 comment:
Another trip to Boston! What fun. Sorry we didn't get to have you visit us this time. It is our turn to visit you! Enjoy dancing on the East coast.
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