Woke up at 0530. Need to *relieve* myself so badly, but didn't see any facilities (in all actuality, there were some just around the bed). So, I pulled the car up to the rocky wall along side the road, opened both passenger side doors, and did a Montana Blue Eyes. The place is so dry that the evidence against me disappeared in a matter of seconds ... so tidy!
I re-parked the car closer to the trailhead, and saw Scout almost immediately. He introduced me to his roommate Jo, and we were off at around 0700. In the early morning light, the canyons are quite impressive. They stretch on forever in both directions ... red and white stratified and towering rock. The switchbacks down to the canyon floor were quite steep (about 1.5 miles descending 1000 ft), and I was glad for my hiking poles (along with my unshaven legs, I felt quite European) and the fact that I was riding out! It was also the first time in my life that I've been grateful for my quite ample hips ... it's no small thing to be carrying all one's supplies on one's back, and the hip straps helped my legs (and not back) do most of the work.
Once on the canyon floor, it's a relatively level hike for the next 8.5 miles to the campsite. And so beautiful. The brilliant red rock reached up to the azure sky that was liberally sprinkled with kind clouds that shaded our progress. The foliage was not dusty, but a bright green that seemed to shout out the vibrance of life down here. We were passed by numerous horse trains and some Indian maintenance workers who seemed rather friendly.
We reached the village around 1100, and stopped to relax and write postcards which would be carried out by mule train. When I took my pack off, I felt so light, as if I could fly! We paid our entrance ($22 each) and camping fees ($10/night each), and I arranged to ride out. It's actually cheaper to helicopter out, but they don't operate on Satudays. So, Scout, Jo and I split a pack animal fee and were vastly relieved at not having to carry out the packs ... Huzzah! We also took advantage of the last faucet and flush toilet facilities for the duration of our trip before heading out to the campsites.
We had our first view of the Havasu Falls and fell in love. The name "Havasupai" means "people of the blue-green waters." The water plummets down 100 feet into pools that look like petrified wood ... a milky blue-green color derived from lime and travertine deposits. What a sight to behold! I wanted to throw myself into the water immediately, but restrained myself so that we could set up camp first.
We were able to use the site Scout had used last year, which is on high ground, and next to a sheer rock face. Scout set up camp while Jo and I let our abused bodies settle down. Jo actually fell asleep on a picnic table, so Scout and I took a short walk over to the top of Mooney Falls for a quick look.
We all then backtracked to Havasu Falls and frolicked in the water. Swimming, jumping into pools on the lower falls area, and even swimming to behind the main falls. There, the falls struck the surface with such force that we were rather blinded. Scout and Jo climbed up to a ledge and urged me on. However, not being an athletic guy, but a rather out-of-shape girl, I didn't have the upper body strength to hoist myself up. Maybe it's a good thing that SaB didn't come ... the guys think I'm a wuss, but because there are no other girls to compare with, they think I'm a wuss because I'm a girl, and not because I'm a *wimpy* girl!
Jo wanted to set up to take some pix with his camera, but I was too chilled to wait in the shade, so I climbed back up to the top where it was warm and dry. In a way, we are a good team ... Scout (the fearless leader) packed in the tent and propane stove; Jo (the computer guy turned amateur photographer) packed in his camera, tripod and dry sack; and I (super-nurse) packed in the medical supplies.
Got back to the campsite, and our appetites were definitely w(h)et, although our clothes were mostly dry from the dry, hot winds that were coursing through the canyon. I had mashed potatoes and tuna, but also sampled some of the Mountain House dehydrated dinners that Scout had brought. Such a smart idea! Everything is in a ziplock pouch ... just add 2 cups boiling water, reseal for 5 minutes, and voila! a tasty hot meal.
It was still too hot (and early) to bed down for the night, so Scout and I just talked ... about current happenings, family, etc. This is actually the third year in the row that he's come to Havasupai, and he's determined to make it an annual pilgrimage. Just after Labor Day is perfect ... still warm, but the crowds are much sparser.
Finally our body clocks told us it was time to turn in. Scout and Jo both slept on their air mats on top of the tables, and let me have the small tent. So chivalrous. I lay on my air mat on top of my sleeping bag, and kept turning my cool pack over and over on my forehead trying to con my body into thinking it was cool enough to sleep. Overhead, numerous stars twinkled in the sky ... not brilliant as they were at Lake Arrowhead, but friendly and comforting amid the stark darkness.
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